A few months ago, as I was planning for this trip and driving myself crazy trying to obtain a work visa through Venezuela’s consulate, I decided to just forego the trouble and come without a visa. Though this saved me a ton of work, I had to find a way to extend my stay as a tourist beyond the 90-day limit, which required me to leave the country for a few days. So I went online, looked for the airport with the cheapest round-trip ticket from Caracas, and voila: fast forward a few months and I find myself on a plane to Quito, Ecuador.
Having done a little research before, I was super excited about a few things about Quito: 1.) They use the U.S. dollar as their official currency, which means I could take out dollars from an ATM (which is impossible in Venezuela), and 2.) compared to Caracas, everything is dirt cheap. Just imagine this: a three-night’s stay at a comfortable hostel in the center of the historical district, with my own room equipped with hot water and a TV, cost me a measly $10 a night. With my lodging booked prior to arrival, I felt more or less secure about arriving in a foreign country with only $50 (all the dollars I had left after paying my rent in Caracas) in my wallet and almost nothing in my debit account – unfortunately for me, as I was reading the travel documents while waiting in line at the airport, I discovered that Ecuador charges a slight exit tax for air departures: which happened to come out to $40.80. $50 – $40.80 =… yes, $9.20 – that was my effective budget for a 3-day stay in a country I’ve never been to. So, it turned out that I was a little unprepared. I arrived at the airport tired and uneasy, and I couldn’t help but laugh when I asked for the cost of a taxi to my hostel: $8.00. Great. I tried not to think about the days ahead and focused my energy on finding a bed to fall asleep on for the night.
The next morning I got up and welcomed the sights of a new country. After two months in Caracas, Quito was a breath of fresh air: clean, safe, cool, and most of all, beautiful. Declared a Cultural Heritage Site by UNESCO over 30 years ago, the historical district of this city has been immaculately restored and maintained. The stunning colonial architecture and the colors of the buildings held my attention as I spent the morning wandering through the city. Finally left to fend for myself using Spanish, I was proud to finally be able to ask for directions and recommendations, and order food without any trouble. I sat down for breakfast at a restaurant and ordered the local favorite: seco de chivo, or goat meat, with a side of rice, potatoes, salsa and avocado. Together with a glass of fresh juice, it cost a little over $4.00. After months in a city that charges the equivalent of $10 for a Subway combo, I reflected for a minute on how much easier life would’ve been if I’d found the job here instead. I was too hungry to care about the exit tax so I put it out of mind, paid for the food and hoped it would work out. As it happened, long story short, I was able to have some money transferred to my bank account and get it through the ATM later that day.
The country is named so because of the Spanish word for “equator”, and because of its position it is known as “la mitad del mundo” (the middle of the world). Though only two countries over to the West from Venezuela, the people of Quito look remarkably different. People have been there since the first millennium, and the cultural influences of the indigenous tribes can still be seen despite the centuries of Spanish colonization. The people look the way I’ve always pictured Native Americans, with dark skin and long black hair. They tend to dress very conservatively, and both the men and women wear dark cowboy hats (see picture below). I immediately understood the reason why after I felt the burns all over my face and neck after half a day’s walk under cloudy skies. I spent the rest of the day wandering through the city, admiring the churches, plazas, and the central square. In the afternoon, I toured the basilica where I had cake and coffee in the bell tower while admiring a spectacular view of the city, then leisurely made my way back to the hostel.
Next morning I ventured to leave the city to visit a historical outdoor market, on a friend’s recommendation. The market in Ottavalo is said to be the largest gathering of artisans and vendors in South America, bringing together craftsmen from all over the country as well as curious tourists. I took a two-hour bus ride from Quito, which took me through the mountainside and many small towns. On the way I got to hear a musical performance when a few of the passengers suddenly got up and started playing instruments. Though I was expecting the usual Latin music, they played a folk song using a combination of guitars and an unusual flute – something you might see being played by a mythical creature in Greek mythology. Point is, it was a really cool experience. After arriving in Ottavalo, a small town seemingly in the middle of nowhere, I stopped at a small café and chatted with an elderly couple while drinking coffee – a short conversation, but all in Spanish. Such an insignificant experience, but for me it felt like I’d reached a huge milestone. The market itself was different from what I expected, but still very cool. The market wasn’t in an open area, but built into the streets of the city. For what seemed like half a mile each way, there were tables and stands set up displaying everything from artwork, clothing, souvenirs, toys, and of course, food. I walked for a few hours just browsing through, enjoying the sights and smells. Unfortunately I had just enough money in my pocket to make it back, have dinner and get a taxi to the airport so I wasn’t able to pick up any souvenirs, but it was a great experience.
Not quite satisfied with my day, I left the hostel later that evening to find one more adventure. I walked into a restaurant and, remembering a local’s recommendation, ordered the yaguarlocro. This traditional dish is a creamy soup of potato and, wait for it, tripe (pig intestines) – which apparently is an important ingredient in many traditional dishes in Ecuador. Though I’d never eaten tripe before, I actually enjoyed the soup – it was really rich and creamy, though a little greasy. This restaurant though stepped it up above my comfort level and served it with a side of (according to what I was told) dried chunks of blood that was supposed to be mixed in. I took a small bite for the sake of trying it but mostly left it alone.
yaguarlocro: aka, "blood soup"
The next morning I got up early, caught a taxi to the airport, paid the damn airport tax and made it back to Caracas without a hitch. Even better, immigration didn’t say a word about my visa so I’m all set to stay in Venezuela until May. All things considered, I had an awesome time in Quito and would love to return and see more of the country some day.
When you move to a foreign country, you can’t help but notice that you bring along more than just the things you packed into your bag or suitcase. When the rush of new experiences subsides and you inevitably settle into the habits and routines of your usual lifestyle – wake up, check e-mail, go to work, eat, surf the web, go to sleep – you might wonder why you left home at all. But once in a while there comes an experience that reminds you all over again how far from home you really are.
The next morning, of course, the car was dead again. So we took our time and walked through the villages to find a hiking trail, which led to some awesome caves that we explored for most of the day. The nice Swedish couple that owned the hostel helped us get the car running again, and in the afternoon we made our way to Coro, a small town that sits adjacent to a massive desert. We spent the night in a traveler’s hostel, sharing a dorm room with two Venezuelan guys, a guy from England starting off a one-year tour of South America, and another from Australia who’d just visited Colombia. I’d never stayed in a dorm-style hostel before, but it’s a great place to meet interesting people and get information about where you’re staying.
